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A pond is a living environment, complete with pond plants, fish and
wildlife that depend on a well-balanced aquatic ecosystem. Unlike a pool, a pond isn’t “closed” for the
winter. Pond maintenance is a year
round process. Although much of the
pond goes dormant at 51 degrees, it is important to prepare your pond for the
winter elements, so it can continue to be a safe haven for your fish and other
inhabitants. Everything is based on
water temperature; cycles, plant growth, fish feeding, etc.. Proper maintenance in the fall, and a watchful
eye over the winter, will help create a smooth transition into spring, as your
pond comes back to life. Here are some
fall and winter maintenance tips to prepare your water feature for the elements
and get a jump start on next spring.
Clean Out Debris - One of most important aspects of fall pond
maintenance is to clean out as much of the debris, leaves and build-up of muck
that has accumulated on the bottom of the pond as you can. If this organic matter is left on the bottom
of the pond, it will continue to decay over the winter months, releasing toxins
into the water. Polluted pond water can
be dangerous to fish, especially if ice forms on the surface. Use a long handled net to scoop out
leaves. You may rent one of our pond
vacuums. Please call in advance to
reserve it.
Tip - Add
Microbelift Autumn/Winter Prep, a cold water bacteria, to the pond to help
reduce the build up of dead leaves on the bottom of the pond. This bacteria is specially formulated to
survive in the cold water, while the bacteria that had built up during the
warmer weather dies off. By adding cold
water bacteria in the fall and winter, your pond will acclimate more quickly in
the spring. Begin adding Microbelift Autumn/Winter Prep in late September
and continue through December. Four
monthly doses are recommended. If you
have any left over, use it again in early spring when the water is still cold,
but don‘t let this freeze while being stored.
Water Changes - Water
changes are a necessary part of pond maintenance and should be done several
times a year. A 25% water change is
usually sufficient although up to 50% could be done if the quality of water is
bad. If you are doing a 50% change, it
will be less stressful for the fish if you move them to a holding tank, filled
with existing pond water. Depending on the number of fish, we recommend using a
holding tank that it is at least 200 gallons in capacity. You may rent one of our collapsible 300
gallon holding tanks. Please call in
advance to reserve it. After you fill the pond back up with the hose, treat the
pond with appropriate additives. Then put fish and water from the holding tank
back in the pond.
Tip - If
you want to do one last water change before winter, do it before the water
temperature gets too cold (below 60 degrees). You don’t want there to be more than a five degree difference
between the temperature of your pond water and the temperature of the water
coming out of your hose. Drastic
temperature changes in the pond water can be very stressful for your fish and
even cause disease. The pond water can
also get very cold for you to work in. Invest
in a pair of long sleeve gloves, you’ll be glad you did.
Plant Care - Part of
your fall pond maintenance routine should include pruning your pond
plants. Tropical plants that you want
to save and replant next year have to be brought inside when the water
temperature drops down into the sixties.
Water hyacinth and water lettuce are not usually wintered over because
they can be purchased inexpensively each year. Tropical plants such as umbrella
palms, canna, and tropical water lilies will not survive the winter in the
pond. Hardy pond plants can remain
exactly where they are in your pond.
Tip - Cut
back hardy marginals to right above the crown of the plant leaving about 2
inches of stem above the water level.
The crown of the plant should be under water. Remove dead leaves and stems from hardy water
lilies.
Preparing Fish For The Winter - Don’t forget your fish when thinking about your pond
maintenance. Ponds that are overstocked
with fish will result in a stressful situation for the fish and may overload
your filtration system as well. As the
water temperature drops, the fish need a change in diet. They become less active in cold water and
need to be fed less frequently. Your
fish like to huddle together when the water is cold. If you don’t already have a Koi Kastle, install one now. The fish will hibernate inside and actually
use it all year long.
Tip - Begin
feeding your fish wheat germ or a fall fish food when the water temperature
drops below 65 degrees. Wheat germ
is easier for the fish to digest and reduces the amount of ammonia they
produce. Fish waste contains
ammonia. (A high level of ammonia can
be toxic to fish). Gradually decrease
the number of times you feed your fish per week. Once or twice a week should be fine in the cold months of October
through December. When the water
temperature drops below 50 degrees, stop feeding your fish altogether. Since bacteria stop growing below 50
degrees, fish waste is no longer being broken down by the bacteria. It is important to have a floating
thermometer & test kit.
Aerators and Pond Heaters - When an aerator is used in conjunction with a pond heater, it greatly
increases the chances of successfully wintering over your fish. Be sure not to put the air stone on the
bottom, keep it on a shelf, the warmer water remains at the bottom where the
fish are. After you place the air
stones in the pond, place a floating heater in the same general area. The air stones will continue to provide
oxygen in the water after your main system is shut down. The pond heater will keep a hole in the ice
and allow for the exchange of oxygen and gases. Pond heaters have an internal thermostat and will turn on and off
depending on the temperature of the water.
Tip - The
aeration pumps are not like the submersible pump in your pond. Aeration pump motors are external pumps
and need to be protected from rain and snow.
Please follow directions carefully. Artificial rock covers can help
protect the pump from the elements. Air stones and pond heaters can be
placed in the pond before the pond netting is put on. That way, you are all set up in case cold weather comes in
unexpectedly and ice forms on your pond.
Cleaning the Skimmer - Clean out the pond’s skimmer or filter so
that it is clear of leaves and debris.
Check to see that the pump is not clogged. Continue to run the pump until the pond begins to freeze. In colder temperatures, the pad can be
removed to keep water from freezing to the pad. An iced over pad would keep water from getting to the pump.
Tip - Replace
the filter pad in the skimmer every
year. These pads get extremely
dirty.
Cleaning the Waterfall -
The waterfall box only needs to be cleaned out two to three times a year so the
good bacteria is not constantly removed from the pond. The pads and bag of rock can be rinsed out
with buckets of pond water or with a garden hose.
Tip - Rotate and replace the waterfall pads as
follows: Remove all pads. Throw away
the bottom one. Put a brand new pad on
top of the remaining old ones and place them back in the waterfall box. The filter media on top of the pads
should be replaced every 3 years.
Installing a Pond Net - Before the leaves begin to fall off your
nearby trees, install a good quality pond net over the entire surface of the
pond, stream and waterfall area. This
will keep falling leaves out of the pond and prevent that buildup of debris on
the bottom. The more leaves you keep
out now, the easier your spring opening will be. Make sure the net hangs over the pond by at least 6 inches. This allows the net to be rolled up closer
to the pond’s edge. Secure the net by
using sod staples (pins) which are pushed through the rolled up net into the
soil. Space the pins every 4 feet. Leave openings on the sides off the ground
so frogs can come and go freely.
Tip - A professional grade net will be able to
be pulled taunt so it sits above the water.
If the surface area of your pond is large, try laying PVC pipes
across the pond to keep the net off the water. When leaves accumulate on the
net, it is easier to blow them off with a leaf blower if they are not wet.
Shutting Down the System - Follow the next few tips to avoid problems that
may occur after the weather gets bad.
It is very difficult to check on the mechanics of your pond after the
ground and water have frozen.
Tip - U.V. Bulbs should be removed and stored
inside. Winter caps should be
installed to protect the main unit.
Tip - In Ground Pressurized Filters should be
removed and stored inside so they don’t crack.
Tip - Small
pumps used for fountains should be disconnected. The pump should remain in water to keep the seals moist, and the
fountain or spitter can be protected better if indoors. Free standing concrete fountains and birdbaths
need to be covered for the winter. Frozen water can cause cracking.
Tip - Check the placement of rocks around the
pond. Look for and adjust areas that
could create water runoff out of the pond especially from ice building up,
causing you to lose water over the winter.
Tip - Turning
off the pump: When you turn off the pump in your skimmer, you have to
release the check valve (if there is one).
Look inside the skimmer to see if there is either a rubber elbow with
clamps or a curved PVC piece with a union fitting attached to the return
line. In either case, they must be
loosened so the water remaining in the line from the waterfall box will drain
out. The line must be open and free of
water. The pump can remain in the
skimmer for the winter. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT TIP. Please make sure you complete this step.
Winterizing Bog Filtration - Follow directions for cutting back plants and
net if you feel it is necessary. No
other winterization procedures are necessary.
Winterizing a Pondless Waterfall - Follow directions for cutting back plants and
net if you feel it is necessary. Turn
off pondless waterfall when ice begins to form. Turn off pump and disconnect it from the tubing. Leave the pump in the basin filled with
water.
What To Do When Ice Forms On Your Pond - It was okay to run your pump as long as ice
is not forming on your pond. Hopefully, you already put in your air stones and
pond heater. As ice forms on the
surface of the pond and becomes thicker, your water level decreases. If the water level gets too low, water will
not be able to enter the skimmer box and keep your pump running.
Tip - It is important to shut your pump off
before the water level gets too low, so you don’t burn it out.
What Not To Do When Ice Forms On Your
Pond - It is necessary to keep
a hole in the ice to allow for the exchange of oxygen and gases. The fish, although dormant, need to have
oxygen to survive. They can suffocate
if there is not a sufficient opening in the ice. Any debris left in the pond will put off toxic gasses as it
decomposes, without an opening, this can kill your fish.
Tip - If you did not get your air stones and
pond heater in before the pond froze, DO NOT break the ice by smashing it. The vibrations and sound waves caused by
doing this could kill your fish.
Instead, place a pan of hot water on the ice and try to melt a hole in
it. This could take some time but it is
very important not to let the pond freeze solid. When you have made a hole big
enough, install your pond heater.
Items you want to have for your winterizing
your pond -
1. Thermometer
2. Test
Kit
3. Long
Handled Net
4. Long Sleeve Gloves
5. Microbelift
Autumn/Winter Prep
6. Wheatgerm
7. Koi
Kastle
8. Aerator/Air
Stones
9. Pond
Heater
10. Pond
Net
11. One new skimmer & waterfall pad
12. U.V. Winter Caps
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